Rancho Valencia

At the resort’s boutique, Sheridan, covetable merchandise includes hand-tooled leather belts, jeweled sandals, and pony-skin bags.

Sliding doors in each casita’s bedroom open onto the private patio, which is wreathed in bougainvillea and shaded by palm trees.

The awning-striped chaises on my patio (I tried both) were perfect for private sunbathing.

The larger of the property’s two pools attracts lazy lap swimmers, splashing kids, and socializing tennis moms.

Inviting outdoor gas fireplaces punctuate all of the property’s common areas—including the reception area, the spa lounge, and, seen here, the courtyard of Veladora restaurant.

At the center of the resort’s spa is a calming water-lily pond; circling it are private treatment rooms for facial, massage, and herbal detox therapies.

The soaking tub in my indoor/outdoor spa treatment room (inside, a massage table waited for me to finish my bath).

Both resort guests and a chic after-work crowd gather at the Pony Room for cocktails—especially those made with top-shelf tequila.

“Imploration,” the $1.1 million Damien Hirst piece that dominates the dining room at Veladora, is made entirely of real butterfly wings.

Below Veladora restaurant, the low-ceilinged, subterranean Wine Cave hosts private and group tastings from its cellar of mostly domestic labels.

Each of the 49 casitas are, as the name suggests, their own little house—with a cavernous living area, a bathroom bigger than most NYC apartments, and a private patio with Jacuzzi
and outdoor fireplace.