Fort Kochi

By Amulya Hiremath, edited by Hamzeh Alfarahneh on 04.15.23

“You need to cross three rivers to arrive at Fort Kochi,” explains our museum guide, pointing to a hand-painted map of the city. Doing mental math, I count the three bridges we have crossed on our way here from the Cochin International Airport. My mom and I had made the trip to see the 2022-23 Kochi-Muziris Biennale but quickly realized how much more the city has to offer. From Kathakali performances to emerging café culture, quiet island retreats to crafted clothing, and galleries tucked away on busy bazaar roads, all with a side of intertwined history — Fort Kochi’s art scene spills beyond the months of the Biennale, making it a destination worth visiting all through the year.

Once a fishing village, Fort Kochi is a neighborhood in the city of Cochin in the south Indian state of Kerala. While Cochin, which translates to ‘similar to China’ named by Chinese traders, is the financial, metropolitan side, Fort Kochi, about an hour away, comprises a handful of islands and islets southwest of the mainland. A major port city with historical ties to Portuguese and Dutch colonial projects, it, over time, became the unassuming stomping ground for the country’s contemporary artists before solidifying its position with the Kochi-Muziris Biennale established in 2011. Led by this spirit, the area has numerous lifestyle hotels, cafes, art galleries, and boutiques — all colorfully and culturally vibrant.

WHEN TO VISIT?

Situated on the coast in South India, the proximity to the Equator makes Kochi’s climate tropical-monsoon with high humidity levels. The summer months of April and May are sweltry, followed by heavy monsoon rains from June to September. The ideal time to visit the city falls between October to March. The Biennale usually coincides at the same time, generally from December to March.

HOW TO GET THERE?

Cochin International Airport is located an hour and a half away from Fort Kochi and is the easiest way to arrive in the city, whether traveling from a different country or from within India. From the moment you touch down, it is impressive. Beautifully clad in wood reminiscent of Kerala’s heritage, the airport is completely solar-powered — the world’s first and a winner of the United Nations title ‘Champion of the Earth.’ Getting a cab from the airport — there are various options like pre-paid, Uber, or Ola — will get you to Fort Kochi. 

HOW TO GET AROUND?

While there are taxi-hailing services such as Uber and Ola functional in the city, your best bet for commute would be the local auto rickshaws. Everything in Fort Kochi is quite near each other within a two-kilometer radius and is easily walkable. If you are traveling from one neighborhood to the other, hail a rickshaw and get a taxi if you want to go out of the city.

WHAT TO DO IN FORT KOCHI?

Kochi is a historically rich place with museums that have preserved the past and churches and palaces that top must-visit lists.

Mattancherry Palace, popularly known as the Dutch Palace, was the city’s royal seat, now protected by the Archaeological Survey of India. Built and gifted by the Portuguese to the Raja of Cochin in 1545, it was taken over by the Dutch in 1663. The palace features artifacts, furniture, and elaborate Kerala murals.

The Indo-Portuguese Museum is housed on the grounds of the Bishop’s House and displays maps, altars, clothing, paintings, and other restored items of religious significance that tell the tale of colonization and, most importantly, a subsequent exchange of culture. The museum keeper is a royal descendant and will be happy to give you a lesson on each object’s significance with his pet peacocks that he rescued roaming about outside in the courtyard.

Saint Francis Church is one of the oldest European churches in India, originally built in 1503. The Portuguese explorer Vasco Da Gama passed away in Kochi on his third visit to India and was buried here for fourteen years before being moved to Lisbon

Another popular church is Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica. Built in the Gothic style with impressive architecture, the basilica features a richly decorated interior with beautiful stained-glass windows.

Fort Kochi also once had a thriving Jewish community, and Paradesi Synagogue in Jew Town is the only functioning temple today, open to visitors except on the Sabbath.

For some authentic cultural immersion in the evening, visit the Kerala Kathakali Centre. Primarily a performance space, the center stages traditional Kathakali, one of Kerala’s classical dances, every evening from 5 pm to 7 pm, including an hour dedicated to the art of putting on the elaborate makeup on stage. They also have shows of Kalaripayatu, a form of martial arts, and classical dance following it, and yoga and meditation sessions in the morning.

For those looking to dip their feet in Kochi’s waters, Fort Kochi Beach is the closest, but as it is the only one around, it tends to get crowded. If you want to enjoy the sun and sand, hop on a ferry to the neighboring island of Vypin. You can also spend a day on the island, visiting charming, white-washed churches and enjoying a sunset at Cherai Beach, followed by some seafood at Liliput Restaurant.

While the beach is the ideal place to catch the sunset, while in Fort Kochi, head to the popular Chinese fishing nets. Introduced by the Chinese centuries ago, the fishing nets are a Fort Kochi staple, and tourists are also allowed to climb on board and try their hand at retrieving the nets for a small fee. Post this, you can walk around Vasco Da Gama Square and browse through the informal market.

WHERE TO STAY IN FORT KOCHI?

While Cochin has all the major hotel chains from Taj to Marriott and Radisson, Fort Kochi is filled with lifestyle hotels that are restored bungalows from the Portuguese and Dutch eras gone by, giving you a taste of history while being equipped with all the modern amenities. Forte Kochi is a classic pick located on Princess Street. The Postcard Hotels’ Kochi outpost, Mandalay Hall, which had five artists stay a month in each room and create unique murals, is an art-focused option. The Eighth Bastion and Brunton Boatyard offerings by CGH Earth are planet-friendly choices. For a more traditional experience, choose Amritara, The Poovath Beach Front Heritage, Old Harbour Hotel, Le Colonia 1506, or The Malabar House, a Relais and Chateaux member. Check out Niyati, a heritage guesthouse with just seven rooms, or Ginger House Museum Hotel for a more intimate stay. Fragrant Nature Kochi, Dutch Bungalow, and Bloom Boutique Waterfront are more budget-friendly options.

Check out Lily Jones’ review of Old Harbour Hotel

If you have a little more time on your hands and want a quick getaway from the city’s buzz, Kayal Island Retreat, about an hour’s drive from Fort Kochi, is an option worth considering. The exclusive retreat sits on an island in Kerala’s Lake Vembanad — reachable only through traditional row boats — and has just four rooms. The hideaway, with sunset boat rides, village strolls, and walks through its lush green surroundings, will nudge you to put your feet up and unwind. 

WHERE TO EAT?

Kerala is known for its distinct cuisine that must be experienced while in Kochi. Be it fresh seafood cooked in coconut oil with local spices rendering their delectable flavor or a simple vegetarian meal served on oversized plantain leaves, Kerala’s kitchen is all about delivering that right balance — spicy, tangy, overall yummy — for a satisfying meal. Seagull, Maples, and Oceanos specialize in fresh seafood brought right from Kochi’s shores. For a truly authentic, local meal, head to Spice Roots or The Cultural Coconut. Fusion Bay, Qissa Café, Malabar Junction, and Aah at The Postcard Mandalay Hall offer inventive plates that are based on traditional Kerala cooking but often with European twists — a nod to the city’s diverse heritage.

WHERE TO CAFÉ HOP?

Fort Kochi has an emerging café culture paying homage to its European roots while catering to the modern, cosmopolitan crowd. Kashi Art Cafe is a Fort Kochi institution, and you must try their chocolate cake. Lila is an experiential cafe that serves fusion continental in an art-lined space. Pandhal Hall Art Café and Deli by CGH Earth serves delicious baked goods and sourdough pizza and also doubles up as a satellite exhibition space during the Biennale. Also, visit Mocha Art Café while in Jew Town.

​​WHAT IS THE KOCHI-MUZIRIS BIENNALE?

Founded in 2011, it is India’s first international biennial of contemporary art. Intending to reflect the country’s unique political, cultural, and artistic landscape and provide a platform for both emerging and established artists, the Biennale enables a dialogue between creation and perception.

The fifth edition, originally slated to run from the tail-end of December 2020 and postponed to 2022 due to the global pandemic, ran from 12 December 2022 until 10 April 2023. Curated by Singaporean artist Shubigi Rao, the theme was ‘In Our Veins Ink and Fire,’ and featured over 90 artists from all over the world. The Biennale was spread out over 17 venues. It included the main exhibitions at Aspinwall House, Pepper House, Anand Warehouse, and Durbar Hall, and the Students Biennale, which showcased works by visual art students from institutions across the country, as well as invitation programs at the city’s cafés and satellite exhibitions.

WHERE TO SEE ART?

The city has been equipped with a vibrant art ecosystem thanks to the biennale. Many galleries open around the year, some offering art residency programs, ensuring a vibrant and plentiful creative scene. You will find Gallery OED, Cube Art Space, and TAOS in the Mattancherry neighborhood along Bazaar Road. Nearby is also Gallery Twenty Seven. On the other side of town are Townhouse, a gallery space on Quiros Street by the popular Kashi Art Café, and Pandhal Hall Café and Deli, which features small exhibits.

WHERE TO SHOP?

Kerala, the state of which Fort Kochi is within, is known for its handcraft, jewelry, and white-and-gold-bordered traditional sarees, apart from spices. Jew Town is a popular area to shop in Fort Kochi, with street-shopping options and upscale boutiques. If you are looking for more niche clothing, head to Burger Street or Princess Street and nip into Suee Handloom Clothing Store and Craft Tree boutiques. For more exclusive picks, visit the retail spaces at Pepper House and Pandhal Hall.

Have you signed up for our monthly newsletter yet? Never spammy, always bringing you the best and coolest hotels in the world and global lifestyle culture, all through the eyes of industry insiders and local tastemakers. Sign up here!