INSIDER GUIDE

Todos Santos with Ernesto Kut

Creativity, food, coffee, cocktails, nature walks and where to find the freshest ingredients

Todos Santos with Ernesto Kut

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A Monterrey native, Ernesto Kut Gomez’s love for food has taken him from Paris to San Sebastian, New York to Vancouver. A man of many talents, a celebrated chef, hotelier, and musician. Michelin-star trained, he co-owns the restaurant Nuba in Vancouver and reflects his Mexican heritage by sourcing the freshest ingredients directly from farms and families in Oaxaca, Chiapas, and Tabasco. Lately, Ernesto has been creating an exciting guesthouse in Todos Santos in collaboration with the architect Yashar Yektajo — best known for his design of Paradero. An inspiring project, Casa Melina is a revival and restoration of a 19th-century property, keeping in line with its old-world essence but adding details that make it modern. A Hotel Life caught up with Ernesto to show us around Todos Santos.

Ernesto, what do you do, and how did you get here?

I cook food, play music, create concepts, design stuff, build places, and through all of this, foster communities.

Read on…

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How would you describe Todos Santos to someone that’s never been?

Todos Santos is rugged and adventurous, and it is self-regulating. It is an oasis in the middle of the desert with very particular energy, a magical place with a lost history waiting to be rediscovered.

How does Todos Santos inspire your work and your creativity?

Todos Santos has the perfect balance of nature and peace, but at the same time, it has a very stimulating intellectual and artistic community. I chose to be here because the ocean, the land, and the stars give me the opportunity to take stock, observe, and create.

A slice of brutalist architecture heaven at Casa Melina, designed by Ernesto Kut and Mexican-Iranian architect Yashar Yektajo
A slice of brutalist architecture heaven at Casa Melina, designed by Ernesto Kut and Mexican-Iranian architect Yashar Yektajo
The guesthouse is located in the historic center of Todos Santos
The guesthouse is located in the historic center of Todos Santos

What took you to Todos Santos, and why did you choose it to open your first guesthouse?

I was working in Oaxaca and Mexico City, I came down to visit a friend and to surf and ended up falling in love with Todos Santos. After realizing it was right between Vancouver and Mexico City, I decided it was not a bad place to spend half the year. I fell in love with Casa Melina the day that I set eyes on her. She was in ruins, abandoned for 30 years, and had many stories to tell. I camped on the ruins for two months, during which I re-imagined the space and decided to turn it into an inspiring project. We have little heritage in this part of Mexico, and we have to preserve it at all costs.

Casa Melina is a historical house in the heart of Todos Santos. What makes it so special?

Casa Melina is not just a historic house, it speaks of the past, but it also speaks to the future. It is a guesthouse, cultural space, and residence space for artists, musicians, and chefs. There are also plans to rent it out as an events space and a micro wedding venue, making it special for even more people. I think Casa Melina has a lot more stories to collect in her journey forward.

Check out our interview with Yashar Yektajo, who design Casa Melina and Paradero Hotel

Mercado Ranchero also sells traditional Mexican cooking ware
Mercado Ranchero also sells traditional Mexican cooking ware
Gypsea’s Boutique & Cafe hosts a farmer's market
Gypsea’s Boutique & Cafe hosts a farmer's market

Since you’re a chef, we must ask: If I am in Todos Santos and want to cook a great meal, where should I go to source ingredients?

Mercado Ranchero on Saturday mornings. Pescadero Farmers Market at Gypsea’s Boutique & Cafe on Hierbabuena Road, where you can also connect with local farmers directly to source the best local produce. The fishermen at Punta Lobos for fresh seafood.

Taller 17 is a great place to grab your everyday coffee
Taller 17 is a great place to grab your everyday coffee
Jazamango champions farm-to-table dining
Jazamango champions farm-to-table dining

What are some of your favorite food places in town?

Taller 17 for coffee is a daily ritual for me. My favorite dinner in the town with honest food and genuine people is at Mejibo. Pizzaria RomAntica has by far the best pizzas in Todos Santos. Hierbabuena is great if you are looking for a farm-to-table dinner. Go to Jazamango cafe for breakfast and the same restaurant if you’re looking for dinner. End the night at Teatro 6 with the perfect cocktails served by Frederick from Wednesday to Saturday. 

Mexico is the land of tacos. Where do we find this staple in Todos Santos?

Tacos Isaac has the best street tacos. Pacifica Fish Market for fresh fish tacos and Barracuda Cantina if you are at Cerritos beach. 

What are your recommendations for exploring the great Baja outdoors?

Punta Lobos is my favorite hike. There is also an opportunity to make it a day trip to a small and secluded beach. Santa Rita Hot Springs are not in town, but they are worth the drive.

When is the best time to visit Todos Santos?

Most people like the winter, but I love the early summer as the weather is not too hot, and there are fewer people around.

Check out our guide to the Best Hotels and Guest Houses in Baja California Sur

We pinned all the places on a super user-friendly map you can save directly to your devices and have the whole city at your fingertips.

Fish tacos are a specialty at Barracuda Cantina
Fish tacos are a specialty at Barracuda Cantina
The scenic views from the Punta Lobos hike
The scenic views from the Punta Lobos hike
Try Ernesto's favorite dinner at Mejibo
Try Ernesto's favorite dinner at Mejibo
For cocktails and quick bites, Teatro 6 is the go-to
For cocktails and quick bites, Teatro 6 is the go-to

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