Alex Catarinella

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel

  • Where:
  • Why:To experience one of the world's greatest wonders
  • When:Late April 2025, the tail end of the rainy season
  • Who:A small group of travel writers and myself

"Homey, laid-back luxury at the gateway to Machu Picchu, with Andean culture woven into every corner"

On the banks of the Vilcanota River at the gateway to Machu Picchu, this retreat has spent almost two decades weaving Andean culture into every corner of its 62 rooms. It’s the kind of place guests check into chasing one of the world’s greatest wonders and check out of with a shaman-blessed sense of calm, a lingering taste for pachamanca, and the raging river ringing in your ears as the best white noise machine in the world.

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Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel My soul is still processing the soul-expanding experience after “The Mystical Tour in Machu Picchu,” a shaman-led hike organized by the hotel

My soul is still processing the soul-expanding experience after “The Mystical Tour in Machu Picchu,” a shaman-led hike organized by the hotel

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel A flight, a bus, and a scenic train ride later, I finally arrived. Worth every second

A flight, a bus, and a scenic train ride later, I finally arrived. Worth every second

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel The lobby set the tone immediately. Wood beams, bold Andean textiles and artwork, glowing lamps at every turn

The lobby set the tone immediately. Wood beams, bold Andean textiles and artwork, glowing lamps at every turn

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel Just off the atmospheric lobby is the Suquy Café & Bar

Just off the atmospheric lobby is the Suquy Café & Bar

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel Gold Andean masks lining the lobby shelves

Gold Andean masks lining the lobby shelves

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel My Sumaq Deluxe River View room. Exactly what I needed after a long journey

My Sumaq Deluxe River View room. Exactly what I needed after a long journey

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel Hello, heaven

Hello, heaven

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel Woke up to this pinch-me view every morning. The Vilcanota River, the charming town of Aguas Calientes, and those mountains

Woke up to this pinch-me view every morning. The Vilcanota River, the charming town of Aguas Calientes, and those mountains

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel The gorgeous cocktail and cooking class setup on the hotel’s private terrace. Not a bad classroom!

The gorgeous cocktail and cooking class setup on the hotel’s private terrace. Not a bad classroom!

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel Goosebumps-inducing misty mountains

Goosebumps-inducing misty mountains

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel Class is in session

Class is in session

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel One of the hotel’s signature experiences, “The Offering to Mother Earth Ritual,” was led by a shaman on the private terrace

One of the hotel’s signature experiences, “The Offering to Mother Earth Ritual,” was led by a shaman on the private terrace

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel The hypnotic view from my balcony! Book a river-view room, non-negotiable

The hypnotic view from my balcony! Book a river-view room, non-negotiable

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel A quiet mirror moment

A quiet mirror moment

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel Saying goodbye to Aguas Calientes and its resident dogs

Saying goodbye to Aguas Calientes and its resident dogs

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel All aboard the PeruRail. Until next time, Sumaq

All aboard the PeruRail. Until next time, Sumaq

Highs & Lows

  • Endless highs. But there’s really nothing like falling asleep with the raging river as your natural white noise machine and waking up to hypnotic views of the river and mountains

  • Very friendly and thoughtful service

  • The spa is truly a standout

  • The experiential offerings are unlike anything I’ve encountered at a hotel. “The Mystical Tour in Machu Picchu” (a shaman-guided journey through the ruins), “The Pachamanca Culinary Demonstration” (an ancient Andean tradition where food is cooked underground in heated stones), and “The Offering to Mother Earth Ritual” (a shaman-led ceremony on a private terrace) were all unforgettable. Do not skip any

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel Hello, heaven

The Barometer

  • Design
  • Location
  • Future Forward
  • Night's Sleep
  • Service
  • Amenities
  • Takeable Treats
  • Refer a Friend
  • Overall Value
  • Life Changing
Total: 49/50
Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel The gorgeous cocktail and cooking class setup on the hotel’s private terrace. Not a bad classroom!

Important Bits

  • Type

    Luxury retreat

  • Vibe

    Homey, laid-back luxury with Andean culture woven into every corner. Earthy tones, woven textiles, and original Inca and pre-Inca artwork crafted by local artisans throughout. Then there’s the goosebumps-inducing atmosphere right outside its door: the rushing river, dramatic cliffs, and misty mountains

  • Location

    In the small valley town at the base of Machu Picchu

  • Rooms

    62

  • Pre-Arrival & Arrival Experience

    *

  • Future Forward

    Rainforest Alliance certified. Reusable water-filled glass bottles waiting in my room. Motion-activated hall lights go dark when no one was around. LED lighting throughout. At Qunuq, 85% of the menu is locally grown and sustainably harvested, sourced from the Sacred Valley and Cusco. Cocktails at Suquy crafted with locally distilled cane spirits. Aqlla Spa treatments center on local traditions and community: massages using hot stones from the Andes, pink salt from Maras (a town in the Cusco region, prized by the Incas for its high energetic and mineral value), facials with local honey and quinoa. Interiors showcase local artisans and textile weavers

  • Music

    I honestly don’t recall. Probably peaceful and ambient. The whole stay was so relaxing and the surroundings so magical that I was perpetually zenned out

  • Year Opened

    2008

  • Designed By

    A family affair. Built by the Clavijo Begazo family in 2007 and now run by the second generation, Anibal and Angie Clavijo, with a deep commitment to showcasing Inca culture and Peruvian gastronomy. The hotel’s name, Sumaq, means “beautiful” in Quechua, the native language of the Incas

  • Health & Wellness

    There’s no pool or gym, which is a good thing—you’ve got to be careful about altitude sickness. Aguas Calientes sits around 6,700 feet above sea level, and Machu Picchu is even higher. Your real workout is climbing Machu Picchu’s steep, rocky paths. The hotel offers unforgettable excursions, including “The Mystical Tour in Machu Picchu,” a shaman-guided hike that I highly recommend. You’ll be begging for a massage afterward, so book a treatment at Aqlla Spa. Hidden below the lobby bar, the cave-like, zen-luxe sanctuary with treatments rooted in ancient Andean traditions. The Andean Stone Massage is sublime

  • Food

    Qunuq, the hotel’s bright, airy second-floor restaurant, is a rustic-chic stunner with sweeping views of the Vilcanota River and verdant mountains. Traditional Peruvian cuisine made with locally sourced Andean ingredients. Don’t skip the desserts. I took a cooking and cocktail-making class, creating a cacao cocktail with Peruvian cane spirits that I’m still thinking about. But the real showstopper: “The Pachamanca Culinary Demonstration,” an ancient Andean tradition where food is buried underground with hot rocks and cooked by Mother Earth herself. I watched the ritual unfold, then sat down to a private terrace lunch of potato, fava beans, corn, and meats, washed down with chicha de jora (a traditional fermented corn drink)

  • Bar, Events & Nightlife

    Off the lobby is the laid-back Suquy Café & Bar. It’s an unbeatable spot to unwind with a pisco sour or two

  • Minibar & Retail

    Deluxe rooms come stocked with complimentary bottled water, soft drinks, and beer. Upgrade to a suite, and the entire minibar is on the house

  • Accessibility

    One dedicated accessible room is available. Worth noting that Aguas Calientes is a rather hilly town, so those with mobility challenges should plan accordingly

  • Pet Friendly

    No, but you’ll find dogs everywhere you look in Aguas Calientes. Most are owned by locals and simply left to roam during the day. Absolutely part of the town’s charm

  • Children

    Yep. All little ones automatically get a welcome drink, robes and slippers, pillowcases featuring Allco, the hotel’s Peruvian hairless dog mascot, and a dedicated kids’ menu. Plus, the hotel offers an extensive kids’ program, from "Mini Chef Classes" to "Adventures with Allco and His Friends," a playful guided tour through Machu Picchu, complete with two tour guides, a map, and a stuffed Allco doll

  • Price

    Boutique luxury prices in one of the most remote and magical places on earth. Worth every penny

  • Tel.

    51 84 211114

  • Website

    Visit website

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel

Sumaq Machu Picchu Hotel

Avenida Hermanos Ayar, Aguas Calientes, Peru

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu

Sanctuary Lodge, A Belmond Hotel, Machu Picchu, Machu Picchu, Carretera Hiram Bingham Km 7.5, Perú

Mercado Artesanal

Mercado Artesanal

Just Wander Around

Just Wander Around

Av. 28 de Julio 1300, La Victoria 15033, Peru

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